Roses come in a myriad of colors and grow well in Imperial Valley. January and February are the best months to plant new roses and prune established ones. PHOTO CIFI.IT
The diagram shows the proper method of pruning a rose bush during January or February. Prune canes to encourage fresh growth and to produce more roses in spring. Cut canes above a bud pointing outward to keep the plant open in the center for better air flow.
Roses come in a myriad of colors and grow well in Imperial Valley. January and February are the best months to plant new roses and prune established ones. PHOTO CIFI.IT
Hybrid tea roses are one of the easiest plants to grow in Imperial Valley. They are hardy enough to withstand our hot summers, and they enjoy our cool winters. Roses have one of the prettiest flowers around, and their fragrance is delightful.
During January and February, when roses are dormant, is the best time to prune and prepare them for spring blooming.
Why prune roses? You can leave your roses alone, and they will grow 5 to 6 feet high and will produce fewer and fewer blooms each year. If you prune your roses annually, removing half to two-thirds of their height, you encourage new cane growth and more blooms in spring. With pruning, blooms are also larger and have stronger stems.
Cutting away dead canes improves air circulation throughout the rose to decrease mildew, black spot and other fungal diseases caused by too much moisture. And, of course, pruning maintains the rose’s correct shape.
The diagram shows the proper method of pruning a rose bush during January or February. Prune canes to encourage fresh growth and to produce more roses in spring. Cut canes above a bud pointing outward to keep the plant open in the center for better air flow.
To begin, you need the proper tools. Purchase a pair of high-quality hand pruners, a set of long-handled loppers and leather gloves. Pruners with curved blades are preferred over ones with flat blades. Your pruners should be disinfected each time you prune a different rose bush using a little bleach in water in order to limit spread of disease from one rose to another.
Sharpen your pruners before each pruning season in order to limit spread of disease and to ensure sharp, clean cuts. If pruners are dull, they will tear the canes and allow diseases to enter the plant.
To prune a hybrid tea or grandiflora rose, begin by cutting away all dead and damaged canes. Prune away any sucker canes at the base of the rose. Next, cut remaining canes back to half to two-thirds of their height. Choose three to five of the strongest canes to keep and prune away the other canes. The goal is to create an open center that allows good light and air circulation.
When pruning a cane, look for a bud ready to form a new cane that is facing toward the outside of the plant. Cut the cane 0.5 inch above this bud and at a 45-degree angle. You can also prune above a five-leaflet leaf.
To prune a shrub rose, which repeat blooms on mature canes, prune back all canes by one-third and remove one-third of the old canes each year. Climbing roses are also repeat bloomers and are only pruned to maintain correct size and shape.
Once pruning is done, sprinkle a systemic rose fertilizer around the base of the plant and dig it into the soil. Water to move the fertilizer down to the plant’s roots. A systemic fertilizer contains ingredients that kill aphids and other unwanted insects. Fertilize monthly from February to April and September to November.
If a rose has leaves that look like powder has been sprinkled on them, it probably has powdery mildew – a fungal disease. Mix together 1 teaspoon baking soda, ½ teaspoon cooking oil, and 1 quart warm water. Pour in a spray bottle and spray infected leaves. Commercial sulfur dusts also control powdery mildew.
A few popular hybrid roses to add to your rose garden include Chrysler Imperial and Mr. Lincoln (red), Tropicana and Brandy (orange), Perfume Delight and First Prize (pink), and Oregold and Midas Touch (yellow).
If you haven’t tried growing roses, plant one now to enjoy beautiful blooms for years to come.
Karen Bowen is a master gardener and writes and Desert Gardener column for the Yuma Sun newspaper. She also writes articles for Arizona Federation of Garden Clubs’ Greenleaf newsletter. f
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